Thursday, June 14, 2007

Sabah trip, Day 8: 3rd June, KK, Manukan Island

We stayed at Planet Kinabalu Backpacker's Lodge for our 2 nights in KK this time. Cheap and cheerful, we got an air-con room that sleeps 6 people and breakfast for all 4 of us for RM35 per night. Not bad! Charles the owner, insisted on making us breakfast whatever time we got up, including 4am on the day we left, and offered to drive us anywhere for no charge if it was under 10km. He also offers Astro and DIY laundry facilities, the latter of which was very useful!



We woke up on Sunday morning to find ourselves overlooking the colourful Sunday market.

We walked to Jesselton Jetty after breakfast to catch a ferry to Pulau Manukan, one of the five islands making up the Tunku Abdul Rahman Marine Park just offshore. We found we had to pay a fee for stepping onto the jetty, another for the boat, and yet another for landing on the island, which seemed a bit much! At first they wanted to charge me RM10 for the landing fee, but after I asked in Bahasa Malaysia how much I would have to pay if I were a local, they let me on for RM3!



The jetty was a wonderful place to watch shoals of colourful fish, which were being fed chunks of bread by the newly arrived tourists.



This garfish didn't seem to be after the bread; perhaps it was more interested in the fish that came for the bread!

I took a walk along the jogging track that runs along one side of the island, hoping to see Tabon Scrubfowl, which is apparently active mostly in the early morning. I drew a blank with the scrubfowl, and with Mangrove Blue Flycatcher, though I did hear a number of blue flycatchers singing. Mangrove Whistlers, however, were common and easily seen.



I did see a couple of colourful skinks,this one, Mabuya rudis ...



...and even better, this one, Mabuya indeprensa

After drawing a blank on the scrubfowl, it was time to join the family on the beach!

Tuesday, June 12, 2007

Sabah Trip. Day 6-7: 1st -2nd June, Danum Valley Field Centre - Lahad Datu

Our last morning at this wonderful place. Spent a short time around the centre adding a few species to our list. We ended with a reasonable total (considering it was outside the migration season)of 117 if I remember correctly.



Green Imperial Pigeons were the common pigeon around the centre.



Being outside the forest in the early morning meant I got to see this spectacular sight - the sun's rays coming through the Binturong tree.

Just before getting in the van, we got a phone call from Lahad Datu airport to tell us that they'd brought Roger's flight forward - pretty efficient we thought - especially as he hadn't told them where he was going! Sadly, they also informed us that our flight had been cancelled, which meant we had the dubious pleasure of spending almost 24 hours in Lahad Datu!



What can we say about Lahad Datu? We spent some hours wandering around it; the highlights were this street magician, and a shop called 'Wangly Electrical Supplies'.

Saturday, June 09, 2007

Sabah Trip. Day 5: 31st May, Danum Valley Field Centre

Our last full day at DVFC. We decided to try the Grid again, hoping for a repeat performance by the Black-and-Crimson Pitta, and perhaps another sought-after bird, Bornean Bristlehead.

Even before crossing the river, we were entertained by brilliant views of a pair of Rhinoceros Hornbills and then a pair of Wrinkled Hornbills, the latter our 6th species of hornbill.



The male Rhino Hornbill flies across the river in the early morning sun. His red eye distinguishes him from the female, which has a white eye.



This subadult Oriental Darter was one of several plying the river for fishing spots.

On the Grid, Roger had another brief view of the female Blue-headed Pitta, but there was no sight or sound of the Black-and-Crimson. A Giant Pitta called for some time too, but we never got anywhere near it, and it soon stopped.

Highlight of the morning was two separate sightings of Bornean Bristleheads, both times high in the canopy, and both times picked out by their peculiar wheezy calls. The first was a single bird which we watching bashing a caterpillar against a branch. The second was a group of about 6 birds which had us straining our necks yet again looking straight up into the tops of the trees. They were never in view long enough to get even a poor photo, so look here if you want to know what we saw!



While chasing the Bristleheads, I came across this Bornean Black Magpie. Quite different from the Black Magpie in the Peninsula, this one is all black apart from some brown on the nape and paler tips to the underside of the tail feathers. The tail also seems much shorter than on the Peninsula form.

We were both feeling pretty drained after 4 days hard slog in the forest, so we returned to the road in the early afternoon.



Me next to some rather magnificent buttress roots.Photo courtesy of R Jaensch






















I stopped to photograph a couple of stunning dragonflies on our way out of the forest. This one is, I think, Neurobasis longipes.



And this one I am pretty sure is Rhinagrion elopurae - quite a colour scheme!




Another beastie that stopped us in our tracks was this enormous pill bug. It must have been at least 2.5 inches long!



A female Black-and-Yellow Broadbill was a welcome roadside diversion on the walk back to the Centre.

In the early afternoon we had a fairly heavy rain shower. Fortunately we were already back at the restaurant by then. With the rain came the swiftlets. Most were Glossy Swiflets, but they were joined by a number of much larger, darker swiftlets, which we identified as Waterfall Swifts. These were approximately House Swift-sized, long-winged and sooty-blackish. The tail wasn't really forked , more notched, but the heavy rain may have had some influence on shape.



The best I could get of Waterfall Swift in difficult light.


I spent the late afternoon trying to photograph Silver-rumped Needletails from the bridge, once the rain had cleared.







I love swifts, and Silver-rumped Needletails are one of my favourites (just in case you hadn't guessed already!)

At dusk I went back to the huge fruiting fig outside our rest house, and once again the Binturong was on show. Binturongs are members of the civet family. They're mainly black, and have a long prehensile tail which they sometimes use to suspend themselves with when trying to reach fruit. This is one animal I've wanted to see in the wild for a very long time, but never really thought I would.



An old name for Binturong is Bear-cat, and it's not to difficult to see the resemblance to both these animals.



Those are pretty fearsome looking teeth, but the main item on the Binturong's menu is fruit.






















He finally spotted me, and spent about 5 minutes just gazing down at me from his perch, occasionally scratching behind one ear as if trying to work out what I was doing there! It was a magical moment, he was clearly aware of my presence but seemed completely unafraid. Eventually he roused himself and ambled off along the branch in search of more fruit.

Our night walk was more productive in terms of mammals tonight.

First we came across a pair of Colugos (often erroneously referred to as Flying Lemurs).



We wondered whether the difference in colouration and marking was just individual variation, or an indication of either gender or maturity.























The tree they were on had deeply grooved bark, which they appeared to be licking with gusto. We couldn't see any insects on the bark, so presumed they were after the sap.



They were also curious to see what we were up to!

Apart from the Colugos we came across several Sambar deer, but sadly, no sign of the Brown Wood or Buffy Fish Owls that are seen quite regularly here.

Sabah Trip. Day 4: 30th May, Danum Valley Field Centre



An Oriental Magpie Robin singing at dawn. It's the same species as we get in the Peninsula, but this form has an all black body.

We set off at first light to get to the Giant Pitta location in the hope of finding it on the ground early in the morning. En route we had reasonable views of a female Great Argus as it crossed the path. Once more the GP called incessantly yet remained resolutely invisible. No wonder it's such a mythical bird! To see what one looks like, click here!

Eventually the bird moved off invisibly into the distance, and again we were forced to give up. Thereafter, things improved markedly, first with this Chestnut-backed Scimitar Babbler...



... and then a stunning male Rufous-collared Kingfisher.





On our walk back along the waterfall trail, we came across this Rufous-tailed Jungle Flycatcher, which was a new bird for me.



This was followed by brief views of both Maroon-breasted and Rufous-winged Philentoma, and then a nice look at a Spotted Fantail.



This dung beetle was laboriously pushing its cargo along the trail.























An attractive flying lizard landed on a nearby tree and began displaying by extending its strikingly coloured dewlap.

Back on the Nature Trail near to the Centre, we spotted a Diard's Trogon again. By the broken tail feathers we could tell it was the same individual as the one I had photographed yesterday.



Here's a rear view...






















...and one from the front. The bird actually allowed me to walk around it and photograph it from different angles!

Bird activity was again excellent in the trees beside the restaurant verandah.

































I guess these are Greater rather than Lesser Green Leafbirds, though the yellow eyering and throat on the female is not as well-marked as on birds in the Peninsula, nor does the bill seem particularly heavy. I find this pair of species one of the most difficult identification challenges in this region.



It was good to get fine views of this lifer seen earlier - a male Yellow-rumped Flowerpecker



A Buff-rumped Woodpecker pays a brief visit. Years ago we rescued a young Buff-rumped Woodpecker that had been caught by orang asli. "Bertie Buff-rump" gave us hours of amusement by climbing all over our furniture. Bertie may be gone, but Buff-rumped Woodpeckers will always be a special bird for me.



This flower was favoured by the visits of two spiderhunter species, Little ...



... and Grey-breasted.



A male Plain Sunbird drops in for a snack.




A fine Buff-vented Bulbul - so distinctive when seen well.



A Rufous-bellied Eagle also put in an appearance.



Not to be outdone by the birds, the butterflies put on a superb show as well.

In the late afternoon I went for a walk around the Grid.



On the bridge I watched a young Whiskered Treeswift being fed by its parent. Wow, that looks just yummy!



Kids are never satisfied!

On the Grid I saw a female Blue-headed Pitta - again brief views - and better views of a Black-and-Crimson Pitta. Again, no photo, but this is what one looks like!



The day ended with us watching Rhinoceros Hornbills, Large Green Pigeons and best of all, a Binturong, feeding in a large fruiting fig outside our room. If you don't know what a Binturong is, read tomorrow's posting!

Sabah Trip. Day 3: 29th May, Danum Valley Field Centre

A brilliant day in the field today, with many highlights - a male Blue-headed Pitta being the main one; also, seeing all 4 lowland trogons, 4 hornbill species and 3 orang utans.



A map of the Grid. This morning we walked from the 'You are here' sign, up to W5N0, then left to W5S5, then back along a riverside trail (not shown on this map) to the bridge.

At dawn, we walked around the research area known as 'the Grid'. It was quiet for long periods, and we only saw 4 species in the forest, but one of these was the pitta. We saw it briefly some way up the trail. When it hopped out of view, we walked quietly up to where we'd last seen it, whereupon it hopped up onto a tree root close to us, before flying into the forest. A real jewel of a bird! No time to take a photo, but to see what one looks like, check here.



Our first trogon of the day was this male Scarlet-rumped, responding to our whistled imitation of its call.



We surprised this male Emerald Dove on the trail.



A mid-morning breakfast at the restaurant was enlivened by great views of a Black Eagle, as well as a variety of birds coming to feed in the fruiting tree below the verandah...



... such as Red-eyed Bulbuls ...



... and this fine male White-crowned Shama




This immature blue flycatcher caused us a few identification problems, until eventually we had good views of the parent bird, and were able to identify it as a Malaysian Blue Flycatcher.

Breakfast over, we set out on the Tembeling Waterfall trail, reknowned location of the near mythical Giant Pitta. First off was another trogon, the first of many Diard's Trogons.



The 'song' of these birds was an almost constant feature of our trail walks. They seemed to be so numerous that we jokingly referred to them as 'trash birds'! Note the broken tail feathers of this individual.

Later along this trail we also added Red-naped Trogon, and then, after imitating a strange, pitta-like call, succeeded in calling in a male Cinnamon-rumped Trogon, much to our surprise.



Trogons a-go-go! A poor shot of a pretty rare bird, Cinnamon-rumped Trogon.

Several hours were spent 'in conversation' with a calling Giant Pitta. Its soft hollow whistle was frustratingly difficult to pinpoint, and, though the bird was extremely close at times, we never got a glimpse. We even heard the wingbeats. The bird's ability to throw its voice, so that it seemed to come from different directions with successive calls, had us wondering whether it was in fact high up in the canopy, perhaps even directly over our heads. No amount of neck-craning prevailed however, and eventually we had to admit defeat.



These large Nymph butterflies fly so slowly through the forest they appear to be floating through the air.



While listening to a calling Black-and-Crimson Pitta, we noticed this whip snake in the bush in front of us. The snout appears too long for Oriental Whip Snake. I've since been told it is a Long-nosed Whip Snake.



Back in the late 80s I travelled round Malaysia and Thailand with Phil Hurrell. I went on to work with AWB, while he went off, rediscovered Schneider's Pitta, and started building canopy walkways and tree towers in various places, and working for the David Attenborough series "The Life of Birds". It was great to bump into a reminder of those good old days, though I didn't dare to climb the tower - nothing personal Phil if you ever read this! Where are you now???

Even though there was no rain all day, the river rose dramatically in the late afternoon, demonstrating how potentially dangerous it can be to swim in these large forest rivers.



Another night walk around the nature trail yielded a fleeting glimpse of a mouse deer, more spiders, and this stick insect.